Fotografija: Časopis Žena u borbi, broj 37.,1947.
London, 04. 12, 2014.
Museum of London organizira simpozij ‘’Moda u doba štednje’’ koji će se održati od 11. do 12.09.2015., u Londonu. Danas je potvrđeno da su prihvatili i u program uvrstili predavanje suradnica Centra za istraživanje mode i odijevanja (CIMO), sa referatom ‘’Žene u borbi i ženska emancipacija, politike štednje i odjevnih praksi u poslijeratnom periodu socijalističke Jugoslavije’’. Predavanje će održati Lea Vene i Ivana Čuljak, istraživačice u CIMO centru, a na programu simpozija je u subotu, 12.09.2015.
Women in combat: female emancipation, politics of austerity and everyday clothing practices in a post-World War II socialist Yugoslavia
Politics of austerity in the post-World War II period in Federal People's Republic of Yugoslavia was a response to social, economic and political changes that resulted in modifications of consumer culture which was regulated by restrictive use of money instead introduced ration books and coupons which affected clothing consumption and textile and clothing trade but on the other hand placed great emphasis on DIY culture that was successfully promoted in several weekly women journals.
The context for the research is framed around the exploration of the ideological construction of the concept of austerity in connection to the struggles for female emancipation. Women’s Anti-Fascist Front (AFŽ) as one of the main platforms for female emancipation was primarily promoting the emergence of the so-called new woman (emancipated, politically and socially active female worker) through direct propaganda in their weekly journal Woman in Combat (Žena u borbi). The concept of austerity was therefore symbolically present within the transformed role of women in Yugoslavia. The new woman was dealing with issues such as education, working conditions and political actions rather than focusing on consumption, clothing, textiles or make up. On the other hand, previously mentioned Women’s Anti-Fascist Front published another extremely popular journal called Our Fashion (Naša moda) which was constructing a completely different model of woman that was generated only around her interests in fashion and family stressing her role as a housewife, mother and frivolous consumer. This dichotomy is important for further reading of public and media constructions of austerity look embodied in the new woman but also quite opposite and alternative everyday practices that were completely neglected in the official public scene. Faced with the ideologically constructed emancipation women continued performing the role of a housewife who was forced to rationalize her clothing practices adapting it to new political and economic conditions. Besides the politically regulated trade there also existed a parallel contradictory economy such as flea market Hrelić and various second-hand shops that were outside economic and political control. This paper will discuss the way in which contradictory everyday practices such as formal and proscribed restrictions and informal ways of trade together with the promotion of female emancipation within the print media, political emphasis on DIY culture and the construction of female consumer affected the production and performance of the austerity look and aesthetic.
L.V. / I.Č.