Partisan, photographer unknown, Crikvenica, 1945
On Friday, December 5, 2014, starting at 7 pm in the Green Action space (Frankopanska 1,10000 Zagreb) prof. Tonči Vladislavić, head of Center for Research of Fashion and Clothing (CIMO), will give a lecture as part of the Fashion and Clothing - New Theories and New Practices program, entitled Comradess à la mode - Clothing and Fashion in Zagreb from 1945 to 1960.
The lecture is accompanied by a project to research the phenomenon of clothing and fashion in Zagreb from 1945 to 1960 (presented at an exhibition at MSU, 2006). This period is extremely interesting because it shows the clash of two ideologies - socialist and bourgeois, two worldviews - eastern and western, two fashion stereotypes - non-fashion "comradess" and fashionable "ladies with memory", which will later, under the influence of Dior's New look, result in a new hybrid stereotype - "comradess - lady". Fashion discourse will be marked by the presence of the ambivalence of the propagated ideological type of non-fashion comradess and the desire for the lady’s fashion.
In this conflict, a specific view of clothing and fashion will gradually be established, so it can be said that Zagreb is an example of quick acceptance of fashion challenges, despite the ideological rigidity of a politically ''tailored'' collective body. Although initially ignored and silent, the craving over fashion possesses and changes the individual fashion body manifesting a subversive force that erodes even the most rigid political dictate.
The series of lectures Fashion and Clothing - New Theories and New Practices presents CIMO projects that, in addition to cultural contribution, bring a shift from the traditional understanding of fashion as a system of power in the name of cultural extension to the view of clothing practices as inclusive cultural and economic needs. CIMO center is particularly focused on the problem of sustainable design and nurtures and supports individual theoretical and creative efforts that stand against consumerism and the phenomenon of banal fashion.
* Lectures Fashion and Clothing - New Theories and New Practices are held every November and December every Friday at 19.00 in the Green Action, Zagreb.
* The project is financially supported by the City Office for Education, Culture and Sports of the City of Zagreb, for 2012.
* Copyright © cimo - a center for research of fashion and clothing. All rights reserved.
* Photos: private archives t.v.
